How to install AstroGuard on window with protruding sill?

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Preppie
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Location: Metro Charleston, SC

How to install AstroGuard on window with protruding sill?

#1 Postby Preppie » Sun Jul 10, 2011 12:02 am

We have a typical 1970s brick ranch with recessed windows and protruding brick sills. On short runs the sills aren't much of a problem but we have three sets of mullioned windows (two sets of three, one set of two), ranging from about 60" to about 115".

I've scoured the net and although I find mention of the problem, e.g., "allow for extended sills," there are no directions on just how that might be done without leaving gaps for winds and rain to enter. I know I can do a build-out but that would involve spending more money on tracks and I've already busted the budget on hurricane panels, anchors, etc.

I'll phone the company on Monday but was hoping someone here would have some advice. Please let me know if you have any answers--I'd very much appreciate input.
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Preppie
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UPDATE: How to install AstroGuard on window with protruding

#2 Postby Preppie » Mon Jul 11, 2011 10:10 am

UPDATE, 7/11/11: I've spoken to a reassuring and very competent-sounding representative at the company and been firmly assured I can "ignore" the sill and just take the fabric down level with the top of it, securing at each side with the special clips. I did stress several times that this was a 115" run, about 60" high and was each time assured that side-to-side fastening would be sufficient. Even if I put clips all along the top they won't take any stress, it will all be on the sides. The company has, apparently, tested up to 18' wide openings with only side-to-side attachment.

What if the panel droops? I can put a clip in the center top for aesthetic purposes if I like. Actually, I think I'll put two or three clips along the top, just to help me keep the panels level and make installation a bit easier.

AstroGuard was very helpful and encouraged me to call back if I had any further questions.

Just for general information, a brick facade structure requires the use of 7-1/2 inch anchors so that the anchors are seated in the wooden framing of the house, not the three-holed bricks. I bought male stainless steel PanelMates, washered wing nuts, special bits and drivers (including wing-nut drivers, manual and to fit on my drill, to save my fingers) from http://www.windstormproducts.com . I also bought from the company some bronze plastic caps which slip over the exposed part of the anchors when not in use. Delivery was very fast (priority mail) and Windstorm kept me updated via e-mail. They were also, far as I could find, the least expensive.

Then I went to Lowe's and bought a work platform--this one: http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=145287-287-PS-48&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=1017649&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1 It should help prevent a slip and fall, plus I can put all my work gear, phone, drink, etc. on the shelf. Maybe even a small fan :D

Why did I go with AstroGuard? It's rated by Miami-Dade for Cat 5. I would have preferred polycarbonate panels but that would have required an H channel in the middle and I wasn't comfortable with that idea. Using aluminum, steel or clear corrugated panels would have been far more expensive because I'd need custom-cut panels on the first two (I could cut the polycarb myself) and a build-out probably would have been necessary on all four sides. I did order multi-channel polycarbonate panels for certain smaller windows so as to permit light into some rooms.

UPDATE, 7/27/11: Work is progressing very slowly, priorities keep shifting. Following are Things I Have Learned.

1. I should have mentioned first you will need really sharp, strong scissors or a good box cutter to cut the fabric. The fabric itself is, in long stretches, unwieldy and I found it easier to fold the panels like an accordion to render them suitable for carrying back and forth from the worktable to the window.

2. For me, it worked out better to NOT cut the fabric until I had placed clips down one side and actually fitted the fabric to the space to be protected. These clips have only two screws in them so as not to produce a heavily perforated area if they need to be repositioned. For example, some of the carefully-spaced clips landed on mortar and had to be moved to brick.

You young 'uns can just sit cross-legged on the driveway or yard, but my knees won't bend any more. Cutting along the bottom of some tall windows will involve me stretching out on my stomach along the front porch to cut accurately. I can't wait for neighbor comments.

3. Placing clips to hold up the top is problematic. In the construction of our house the builders used steel reinforcing plates, L-shaped, above the long stretches of window to prevent bowing. Unless you have a drill bit that will go through thick steel, don't even bother. I did drill some holes in the brick only and put temporary pegs in them to hold up the fabric to facilitate correct cutting. (Must remember to fill these holes at some point.)

4. I have three drills for working with these panels: one is a corded hammer drill, absolutely essential to get through the brick in about three or four minutes. My impact drill wasn't good enough but, it being small and cordless, is great for repositioning the clips--a cordless screwdriver would be fine, but slower. The third drill is a corded regular drill, which I use for screwing in the anchors after drilling the pilot holes. Tighten the chuck on the hammer drill after every hole is drilled.

It will take longer than you think, especially if you're older. There's lots of upper-arm work and not all of us have upper arms like the FLOTUS. That's why the platform I bought is so helpful--I can drill most of the holes at a more comfortable and stable level than from a ladder.

5. The panels are translucent and permit a surprising amount of light into the house. I still want to be able to actually see outside, so I'm not sorry I bought the multi-channel panels.

If the temperature stays below a hundred and elebenty today, I'll do more work on the panels.
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