Generator Tips

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tronbunny
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#21 Postby tronbunny » Tue Sep 28, 2004 5:33 pm

jes wrote:If you cannot put a generator in the garage and it can not be in the rain --then where do you put it?


Wait for the worst of the rain to end, and put a lean-to/tent shelter over it.

:-)
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#22 Postby drudd1 » Tue Sep 28, 2004 5:43 pm

For a portable, a front or back porch overhang is good. Rule of thumb is, if it protects the generator from the rain, is well ventilated, and no windows are open next to it which would allow exhaust to enter the home, you are good. If you locate one permanently, say, next to your home power main disconnect, then a permanent enclosure is the way to go. It would idealy have a permanent roof with removeable doors, that you can remove when in use. If you are handy, you can construct one from material obtained at your local lumber yard, and can make it look quite cute. Commercial type permanent metal enclosures can be purchased, but tend to be quite expensive.
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#23 Postby drudd1 » Tue Sep 28, 2004 7:58 pm

Persepone brought up a good point in an IM that I wanted to pass on:

"One final thing you might consider adding to your post. My personal opinion is that you probably should not rush out a few days before a storm and buy a generator. I think it took us a couple of months between the actual purchase and first-time usage, because we did have to bring it home and read the directions, buy and pound in the grounding rod, get the appropriately-rated exterior extension cords (there is no "local" Home Depot, so that took a while), etc. etc. Putting on the wheels took time. Realizing that we also needed "sled" capability took experience and time. Also, there is a learning curve to being comfortable with start-up, running, etc."

Couldn't have said it better :D
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#24 Postby plazaglass » Tue Sep 28, 2004 8:13 pm

This is excellent information. It's possible that someone reading this may one day be spared a great deal of frustration or even anguish.

Thanks, knowledgeable people, for taking the time to share.
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#25 Postby BEER980 » Tue Sep 28, 2004 8:28 pm

Well we are in the process of having a new house built so we are going to have a standby generator installed. We don't have gas lines in the area but our fireplace & outdoor grill island will run on propane. So the generator will be powered by propane also. The specs show 100 cfh and with a 250 gallon tank that we are having burried it will run for at least 2 weeks round the clock. It will be enough to run the whole house and fire up automatically. I think we will have the Generac Guardian Air Cooled 15KW one installed.
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#26 Postby Sanibel » Tue Sep 28, 2004 8:39 pm

Diesel has the advantage of having non-harmful levels of carbon monoxide in its exhaust. Because of the combustion process in diesel engines they produce very little relative carbon monoxide. Also, it is one of the few fuels available when a panic sets in and all the gas is sold out.

Down here we had no sewer and water for a while after Charley because the pumping stations were all on the grid. They solved that with portable diesels towed on a small trailer - each connected to a sewer station...


Don't store your generator below surge-level in the garage if you evacuate and plan to return and use it...
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#27 Postby drudd1 » Tue Sep 28, 2004 8:48 pm

Hi Beer980, nothing like doing it right from the get go. Nice choice. Keep in mind, however, if you have to run the generator in the winter, when your heat pump is in the defrost mode, the interior heat strips will be running, and that alone will draw 10kw. Taking that into account, and the fact the compressor will be running outside to defrost, which will add another approx. 3kw to the load, and it could get dicey. That's 13kw and doesn't count everything else that will be on. You shouldn't have a problem in the summer with load, but still, can't run a lot of items in the home at the same time. I will assume that you have at least a 150amp service, but more than likely 200amp, and that would be the potential draw, in theory, should you run the a/c, drier, stove, things like that at the same time. Thats not exact by any means, but assume that you have a 200amp service, and put a load of 100amps on it, half the service capacity, that would equate to 24kw. This far exceeds the capacity of the generator, and 100amps can easily be reached depending on what is being run in the house at the same time. I guess the point I am trying to make, is that 15kw is am impressive unit, but will not run everything in your house concurrently. I wouldn't go any larger, and I love the unit you have chosen, just monitor the major appliance usage while under generator power.
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#28 Postby drudd1 » Tue Sep 28, 2004 8:52 pm

Excellent point Sanibel, that is an advantage of diesel. One of the scams around here some years back, was to sell carbon monoxide monitors to folks with oil furnaces, which use #2 fuel oil, which is diesel for fuel.
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RV verses Contractor generators

#29 Postby TnBob » Wed Sep 29, 2004 12:23 am

Most of the generators that are sold in the stores are what are called contractor generators. RV generators cost a lot more money
but have some advantages.

Contractor generators run at 3600 RPM. RV generates run at 1800 RPM. Because the RV generator is running at half the speed it is a lot quieter. They make about the same amount of noise as a car idling. But at 1800 RPM the motor is not able to develop it's full horse power as a result they usually have about a 2 cylinder 18 HP motor to develop the same power as a 4 hp running at 3600 RPM. They also have remote electric starters. Thats what they are a lot more expensive.

If you can find one at a good price they are far better then the contractor generator

Another option is to use an inverter. It takes the 12 volts from a car battery and converts it to 120 volts. I just picked up a 1500 watt inverter for $129.00. Thats enough power to run a coffee pot or 25 60 watt light bulbs. But at that load a 12 volt battery would probably only last about 15 minutes.
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#30 Postby nativeflacracker » Wed Sep 29, 2004 8:55 am

CharleySurvivor wrote:Hey Sponger! I have a troy bilt - 5550 and the darn thing stalls about every 40 minutes. I just have to power it back, no problem but then it stalls again. I need to bring back to the store to have it fix but the store is almost 45 min. drive me and it's not like it's a 'light thing' to pack in the car.

Did you have any problems with yours? if so what was it?


Ours was doing something similar and it was the fuel filter!
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#31 Postby drudd1 » Wed Sep 29, 2004 2:52 pm

Yep, sounds like a fuel problem. Make sure you don't have any debris in the tank, that over time, is being drawn to the fuel outlet and causing a restriction. After it stalls, the debris could drift away from the outlet, to allow the process to start all over again after you restart the generator. It's worth a look.
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#32 Postby CharleySurvivor » Wed Sep 29, 2004 2:54 pm

Thanks! I found someone locally who will check it. It's nice that Troy-bilt have services at many places/city instead of having to bring it back to the store.
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#33 Postby CharleySurvivor » Wed Sep 29, 2004 2:56 pm

Question....

As anyone converted their generator to natural gas/propane? They sell a kit to convert it and was thinking of doing that.
Last edited by CharleySurvivor on Wed Sep 29, 2004 3:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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#34 Postby Sanibel » Wed Sep 29, 2004 3:01 pm

If fuel cell vehicles come along I'm sure they'll invent a hook-up where the car can be kept in the garage running providing power to the house. There are already plans for this since a fuel cell engine is most efficient when constantly running. No emissions...


Solar panels are also silent. But weigh up to 80 pounds each...
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#35 Postby drudd1 » Wed Sep 29, 2004 3:49 pm

CharleySurvivor wrote:Question....

As anyone converted their generator to natural gas/propane? They sell a kit to convert it and was thinking of doing that.


If you google search the subject, you will find quite a few topics about conversion, mostly on the RV Boards with RV owners that have converted with the kits. Try a google search of "generator conversion propane." You should check it out.
Last edited by drudd1 on Wed Sep 29, 2004 4:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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#36 Postby Robert » Wed Sep 29, 2004 3:54 pm

CharleySurvivor wrote:Question....

As anyone converted their generator to natural gas/propane? They sell a kit to convert it and was thinking of doing that.


I have seen them for cars (propane, Natural gas would be hard to run a car on, if you want to drive it), but not for generators. Apparently for a car it is very easy (especially older cars with carbourators, which most (all?) generators also have. Never done it, but can not imagine it would be too hard at all.
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#37 Postby Sanibel » Thu Sep 30, 2004 11:56 am

The price of the hook-up connector right to the meter box is $2700-3000.


No wonder they don't list it. That much for a simple connector? What the heck is in there, gold wiring?
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#38 Postby drudd1 » Thu Sep 30, 2004 12:02 pm

Sanibel wrote:The price of the hook-up connector right to the meter box is $2700-3000.


No wonder they don't list it. That much for a simple connector? What the heck is in there, gold wiring?



:eek: That is absolutely ludicrous. With the price of transfer switches being a fraction of that, I would say the meter socket option is not the way to go!
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#39 Postby sponger » Thu Sep 30, 2004 2:20 pm

What's the defective part for the Troy-bilt generator?

It involves the low oil pressure sensor.
Mine and neighbors had same problem, an easy fix though
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#40 Postby HurricaneQueen » Thu Sep 30, 2004 6:40 pm

Sponger:

Fortunately we haven't had to use ours yet but could you please tell me what the quick fix is? My hubby is pretty handy (and works for Home Depot), so he could probably take care of it in advance if we know what to look for.

Thanks,
Lynn
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