Was just wondering about the particulars of the solid concrete headers (lintels?) over window openings, and the footers (sills?) on the lower edge. I think they are usually pre-cast to size and dropped in place. Perhaps way back when they were poured in place.
Anyway, this would seem to be the best place to anchor your shutter system, since virtually every masonry anchor type is stronger in solid concrete than in hollow block or even filled block.
Some questions:
)Are these lintels and sills one full block height, i.e. 8" high?
)Do they have any rebar in them?
)How are they tied in to the courses of block?
)Why do the lintels extend out well past the edges of the window frame, but the sills are only the width of the frame, maybe slightly smaller??
Thanks in advance.
Who's a pro/RKI on CBS construction, re windows and doors??
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Here in CBS construction in south florida at least, the lintels are still often poured in place, because there is some need for poured concrete. This is my experience in the Keys, but not sure if that's true elsewhere in florida.
I don't think there is rebar in the lintels, there may be in the precast ones. They are usually about 1 block high. They extend past the window because they have to carry the load for the missing blocks where the window is. The sill is not a structural member like the lintel is, as I understand it.
I anchored my shutter tracks just about the window and I was in the solid poured lintel; used long tapcons with washer heads ever six inches. I'm pretty confident about that type of attachment.
I don't think there is rebar in the lintels, there may be in the precast ones. They are usually about 1 block high. They extend past the window because they have to carry the load for the missing blocks where the window is. The sill is not a structural member like the lintel is, as I understand it.
I anchored my shutter tracks just about the window and I was in the solid poured lintel; used long tapcons with washer heads ever six inches. I'm pretty confident about that type of attachment.
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Thanks, that's what I thought. I too used the Maxiset (flange-head) style Tapcons, 2-1/4" length, on 6" centers, 3-1/2" from the window edges, even blew out the holes w/ compressed air, per ITW/Buildex. Lots of caulk behind fixtures, sealing all edges. I don't think they'll be coming loose.
I see a lot of so-called "professional" installers using 1-3/4" long Tapcons, but when you consider the thickness of the stucco (3/8-3/4"), plus thickness of your track/header, that doesn't leave a lot of good traction. They NEVER blow out the holes, even in patio decks!
I see a lot of so-called "professional" installers using 1-3/4" long Tapcons, but when you consider the thickness of the stucco (3/8-3/4"), plus thickness of your track/header, that doesn't leave a lot of good traction. They NEVER blow out the holes, even in patio decks!
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