Any plastic modelers in here?
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- streetsoldier
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Any plastic modelers in here?
I recently obtained a "pre-assembled" 1/32 scale Bf-109E-4 Messerschmitt, made in Holland; otherwise a NICE job, but some of the decals are "unsuitable" (historically inaccurate) or placed badly. The decals are shiny, but the paint job is flat...probably acrylic.
My question is, how does one remove a "bad" decal to replace it (I also got a set of Hasegawa "Emil Aces" substitute markings for this model/scale) without having to repaint the entire model?
My question is, how does one remove a "bad" decal to replace it (I also got a set of Hasegawa "Emil Aces" substitute markings for this model/scale) without having to repaint the entire model?
Last edited by streetsoldier on Tue May 04, 2004 1:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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No way, you shall repaint. You might consider a different camouflage, or doing a trick: just assume the aircraft has been reassigned to a different group/squadron in short time and the previous signs have been replaced in hurry by the new ones (during war it happens). You can try then to scrape off the old decals. Be very careful because acrylics are very fragile.
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- mf_dolphin
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- mf_dolphin
- Category 5
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- streetsoldier
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Yes, but once acrylic paints dry, it would require an act of God to get them off....they don't "resurrect" like watercolors. (Used to be a professional commercial artist/desginer, so I have a LOT of experience here.) I say that the job is acrylic, because there is no evidence of use of a flat lacquer overspray, as would be necessary using, say, Testor's ModelMaster's enamels.
I'll try soaking them...tape application/stripping didn't do it, and if this doesn't work, I may look for some solvent or sanding films.
Repainting is not that much of a problem, but the Dutch did such a GOOD job of detailing a "worn, but serviceable" Bf-109, I'd hate to ruin it. Besides all that, the markings are from 2.Jagdgeschwader "Schlageter", St. Nazaire, 1940...possibly Erich Hartmann's first aircraft (world's top ace, at 352 kills) due to a "heart" on both sides of the cowling.
The main markings I need to replace are the tail swastika (Dutch left a black diamond in its place) and the national Greek crosses on the fuselage and upper wings (thin, "see-through", poorly cut and misplaced).
I'll try soaking them...tape application/stripping didn't do it, and if this doesn't work, I may look for some solvent or sanding films.
Repainting is not that much of a problem, but the Dutch did such a GOOD job of detailing a "worn, but serviceable" Bf-109, I'd hate to ruin it. Besides all that, the markings are from 2.Jagdgeschwader "Schlageter", St. Nazaire, 1940...possibly Erich Hartmann's first aircraft (world's top ace, at 352 kills) due to a "heart" on both sides of the cowling.
The main markings I need to replace are the tail swastika (Dutch left a black diamond in its place) and the national Greek crosses on the fuselage and upper wings (thin, "see-through", poorly cut and misplaced).
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- streetsoldier
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I just found out about some decal and paint solvent called "E-Z Lift-Off", or "ELO"; it strips off decals, and also paint by layers, one at a time.
So, if I have to repaint the thing, so be it...the RLM "Gelb" (distemper yellow) color on the cowling and rudder was more of a "mustard" yellow than the requisite orange-yellow, anyway...and was a distinguishing mark of Spanish Civil War (1935-37) veteran Luftwaffe pilots.
Thanks for your assistance, Marshall and Paolo...wish I still OWNED an airbrush, but I'm skilled enough with acrylics to "fake it".

So, if I have to repaint the thing, so be it...the RLM "Gelb" (distemper yellow) color on the cowling and rudder was more of a "mustard" yellow than the requisite orange-yellow, anyway...and was a distinguishing mark of Spanish Civil War (1935-37) veteran Luftwaffe pilots.
Thanks for your assistance, Marshall and Paolo...wish I still OWNED an airbrush, but I'm skilled enough with acrylics to "fake it".



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Put in Na*H20 for about 2 hours.Make sure solutions temp is 78-82f.
Then rinse for 5 minutes.
Dry with towel 5 minutes.Make sure it has cooled to room temp no greater than 72f
Try to remove decals.
If not:
Place in mineral spirits for 5 minutes.
Pat dry with towel try to remove decals.
If not:
Use mineral spirits on decal directly letting set for 2 minutes then remove!
If Not:
Sand away!
Steve O.
Then rinse for 5 minutes.
Dry with towel 5 minutes.Make sure it has cooled to room temp no greater than 72f
Try to remove decals.
If not:
Place in mineral spirits for 5 minutes.
Pat dry with towel try to remove decals.
If not:
Use mineral spirits on decal directly letting set for 2 minutes then remove!
If Not:
Sand away!
Steve O.
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- streetsoldier
- Retired Staff
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- Joined: Wed Feb 05, 2003 11:33 pm
- Location: Under the rainbow
- streetsoldier
- Retired Staff
- Posts: 9705
- Joined: Wed Feb 05, 2003 11:33 pm
- Location: Under the rainbow
Nothing as of this writing; I have yet to go to Wally World for the spirits, and the hobby shop in Cape Girardeau for the RLM paints...Dunkelgrun, Schwartzgrun, Dunkelgrau, RLM grau, Gelb, Schwartz and Hellblau, in addition to Gunmetal, Steel, Leather, Rubber, Rust and "Weathering". (As you can see, I take my modelmaking seriously!)
CajunMama, they do still have the acetone-based glue, but it's becoming harder to find; most of the stores sel some "lemon extract" glue, which doesn't work worth a _-_-. The solution here is to get a slow (30 minute, max) epoxy, or something called "Monster Glue", which holds like a welding job.
Basically, what I will betrying to do is take a fairly good Bf-109-E model, and redo it to what I have learned about Luftwaffe specs for that plane and period. More coming as it develops.
CajunMama, they do still have the acetone-based glue, but it's becoming harder to find; most of the stores sel some "lemon extract" glue, which doesn't work worth a _-_-. The solution here is to get a slow (30 minute, max) epoxy, or something called "Monster Glue", which holds like a welding job.
Basically, what I will betrying to do is take a fairly good Bf-109-E model, and redo it to what I have learned about Luftwaffe specs for that plane and period. More coming as it develops.
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